For the fall/winter 2008-2009 collection for Rozalb de Mura, designer Olah Gyarfas wrapped himself in the mystery and austerity conveyed by the sheer blackness of an all black lot. In a conscious gesture, all pieces have been immersed in a black viscous liquid, and then brought to surface bearing the lobe-like traces due to the solidification process.
Over-layering leads to a frenzy of numerous strata. Organic excess is glorified yet immediately hidden under the black camouflage. At a closer look, Rozalb de Mura collection reveals a rejoicing profusion of details, curved cuts, hidden pockets, two-in-ones, false folds and other secret traits that sometimes only the wearer can really appreciate. The detachable lapels of a black contemporary smocking come folded like the bellows of an accordion. You can wear them all, one or just a few. A feminine coat encapsulates three different coats layered one over the other, like big black heavy petals. Rounded seams mark the puffed-up polyamide jackets. The stark lack of color allows a timid sparkle only in the alternation of mated and slick blacks, from wool tweeds to fur-like cashmere and back to lacquered cotton and various shiny polyamides.
Who said quilted can't be glamorous? Olah Gyarfas manages to project an aggressive leather look to innocuous polyamide. The remarkable two-in-one jacket with removable vest that can each be worn separately stunningly combine comfort with an incredible retro hard rock feeling. The black shiny jacket with a tubular superposed collar is certainly the highlight of the women collection. The more extroverted will prefer the odd nevertheless strangely beautiful trapezoidal quilted trousers with removable pads that shape the leg like a sort of burned exotic tree trunks. Rozalb de Mura collection for fall winter 08-09 is a perfect blend of edgy beauty, comfort and practicality in a wide range of levels, from outdoor rock-sport to evening dresses and intricate multi-layered lapel smocking.
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