Though Alessandro Dell'Acqua was keen to stand apart from Milan's appetite for scuba stylings this season—surf's up in Lombardy? There's a riposte to anyone who's ever doubted the essential surreality of fashion—he could easily own the notion. It's not just the way his name translates; it's also because the second skin of scuba is so close to his own body-conscious ethos. In this collection, that consciousness was most obvious in the sheer, flesh-toned items made from something called "non-run lingerie jersey," which he used as a translucent veil over a white shirt, or as a sinuous tee.
Dell'Acqua's pairing of such translucence with sharply tailored pieces has always been the signature of his womenswear. It's a strong, sexy proposition, so why didn't he make more of it for his men? There was something curiously tentative about the presentation, which was a shame when there were so many little details that deserved appreciation: the diving-suit zips, the deep-sea mesh that added an odd but appealing overlay to shoes, the mercifully judicious use of the fluoro highlights that are another of the season's big deals in Milan. by Tim Blanks @ Style.com